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HOW TO GROW MARIJUANA OUTDOORS
(Page 1, Page 2)
Contrary to popular belief, marijuana grows well in many place on the
North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature
does not raise above 75 degrees.
Its takes work but
grow weed the
correct way and the harvest will be splendid.
The marijuana plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and
should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the
last frost of the year.
Growing marijuana outdoors, or au natural, crop has been the favoured method
over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not
encountered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid
detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both
of whom will take your weed and probably use it.
Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to
the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two
schools of thought about starting the seeds.
One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an
indoor starter box. The other says plant them in the ground. That is
a choice you will have to make.
The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too
greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.
The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water
will rot the root system.
Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide
some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or
pepperweed. It is probably a good idea to plant in many small,
broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.
General Growing Info
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the
male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will
still be plenty smokeable and should not be thrown away under any
circumstances.
Marijuana can reach a height of twenty feet (or would you rather
wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it
has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several
ways.
The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will
live another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh
twice as much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also
break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well.
A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch
of worms to the soil, if they live and hang around, it is good soil,
but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil
loose enough for the plants to grow well.
Seeds
To get good grass, you should start with the right
marijuana seeds. A nice
starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have
consumed.
The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and
shrivelled up, but green, meaty, and healthy in appearance.
A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they CRACK,
they are probably good for planting purposes.
The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before
planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP.
Plant about 1/2 inch deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five
days.
Sprouting
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting
box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups
with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a
mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic
fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting.
To get some good extra information check
out these
marijuana pictures, refer to the germinating marijuana seeds
page
When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil
around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a
baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.
If you are growing marijuana indoors, you should use a green
safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting
operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it
about two hours before sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always
wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants.
After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is
also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also
purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
Harvesting And Drying
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow
sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with
pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate
flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a
small bunch of leaves in a cluster.
If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the
males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of
her resin to make the seeds. Alternatively choose
feminized marijuana seeds to begin with and you won't get
any male plants. feminized seeds produce all female plants because
they have been pre treated with a special substance.
After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the
females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the
time to pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastern countries, farmers
reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The
little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is
supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC.
The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into
ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then
pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her.
To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must
have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the
box/room each 130 degrees.
The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden
air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an
orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and
screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between
the leaves and the heat source.
A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil
level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leaves. Take out
any seeds by hand and store.
Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminium foil and put
them in the middle shelf of the oven, which is set on broil. In a
few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
give another ten seconds before you take them out.
Increasing THC Content
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the
THC content of plants:
You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by
cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not
be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you
reach fourteen hours.
You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise
to the flowers. This will increase the resin a bit.
You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower
stalks.
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your pre-soaking solution
of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will
cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that
do come up will be polyploid plants.
This is the accepted difference between such strains as gold and
normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed.
The problem here is that colchicine is a poison in larger quantities
and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake,
author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete
colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first
generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be
polyploid) because of this poisonous quality.
However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very
small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments.
Although these quantities are small, they would appear to be larger
than any you could receive form smoking a seed-treated plant.
It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are
planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete
instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch
off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is
in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span.
This produces a distorted, wrecked looking plant which would be very
difficulty to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less
substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known
to produce so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over
the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two
and see what happens.
Plant Problems
Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing
judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water,
light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
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SYMPTOM
Larger leaves turning
yellow - smaller leaves
still green.
Older leaves will curl
at edges, turn dark,
possibly with a purple
cast.
Mature leaves develop
a yellowish cast
to least veinal areas.
Mature leaves turn
yellow and then
become spotted
with edge areas
turning dark gray.
Cracked stems, no
healthy support tissue.
Small wrinkled
leaves with
yellowish vein systems.
Young leaves become
deformed, possibly
yellowing. |
PROBABLE CURE
Nitrogen deficiency
- add nitrate of soda
or organic fertilizer.
Phosphorous deficiency -
add commercial phosphate.
Magnesium deficiency -
add commercial fertilizer
with a magnesium content.
Potassium deficiency -
add muriate of potash.
Boron deficiency -
add any plant food
containing boron.
Zinc deficiency - add
commercial plant food
containing zinc.
Molybedum deficiency -
use any plant food with a
bit of molydbenum in it.
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HOW TO GROW MARIJUANA OUTDOORS
(Page 1, Page 2)
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