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Mini DWC Grow System

Deep Water Culture (DWC) is a popular hydroponic system and need not be done in a 5 gallon bucket or large tote as most of you do. It may be carried out in a much smaller container for those of restricted space or those wanting to grow many varieties of marijuana at once; or to either carry out experiments, or to choose a superior phenotype for use as a mother plant.

All of the same rules apply as to growing in a standard bubble bucket with a few obvious limitations:

  • Marijuana grown should be switched to flower (12/12 lighting cycle) very early; anywhere from seed to no more than three weeks maximum;
  • Because the reservoir is limited in space, it will need to be checked and topped regularly. During mid to late flowering it might require daily topping;
  • Cleaning the container and changing out the entire reservoir will need to be done much more frequently. I would suggest weekly as the plant matures although going two weeks is unlikely to cause harm.

Hydroponics Bubble Stone

I started with the standard DWC equipment:

  • Small air stone
  • air pump
  • 3’ of ¼” clear vinyl tubing
  • 2” net pot
  • media – lava rocks
  • reservoir – a half gallon plastic coffee container

Coffee for Hydroponics Syst

Advantages of the plastic coffee container is that it has a built in handle, making it easy to change the reservoir or move about unlike a 5 gallon (or larger) DWC. This size allows for many plants to be grown in a small area though maintenance can be a bit much for more than a handful of plants.

  • I started the Northern Lights seed (henceforth known as ‘Ginger’) in a peat pot and then cut a hole in the lid of the coffee container for a 2″ net pot. If I were to repeat this experiment I would paint the lid black as it is translucent and may cause algae problems later though I experienced no such issues;
  • The peat puck was placed in the net pot and covered with lava rock.
  • She was then placed under a 24W (13W actual draw) red & blue LED spotlight. An aquarium air pump and air stone were added. Nutrients used were QuickGrow nutrients, dry at 1/4 strength dissolved in hot tap water and then allowed to cool.


This is a 36W E27 base with 8 red and 4 blue CREE 3W emitters sourced from E-Bay/China, they cost only about $25 each. Actual power draw is about 18W. It is certainly bright enough, but the focus is not right as the lighted area is very uneven.

Northern Lights Seedling

Here is picture-perfect Ginger (Northern Lights) at about 10 days from seed. Note that I underfeed my plants and they seem to be much healthier and happier for it; i.e. zero nutrient-burn.

I put Ginger into flower a few days later under my 165W DIY CREE-based LED, but I waited a bit too long as the roots easily filled up the container later on in the grow. Other than more frequent maintenance, the whole flowering process was fairly routine.

Here she is adjusting to her new environment quite well at about 3 weeks just before she started stretching for the sky.

Northern Lights Flowering


I grew the plants pictured purely as an experiment to see what the lower limit was. Remember that this reservoir was only 1/10th the size of a standard 5 gallon reservoir. While a grower could go smaller still, it would become quite impractical.

Northern Lights Harvest Top

It worked surprisingly well, but is not very useful for anything beyond experimenting or for growing a small personal stash. As you can see I burnt the top a little. The yield is about 1.5 ounces dry weight. Here she is at 26” tall (a bit too much!) and 1-2 weeks from harvest.

Northern Lights LED Harvest

This is too large for this container as she can barely ‘stand’. There is not enough media to adequately support such a weight. Interestingly enough, Ginger (Northern Lights) was over twice the size of her sisters started at the same time with the same seed stock and grown in one gallon (twice the capacity), hand-watered, passive hydro.
Because of the amount of maintenance involved and inherent limitations, there are better options for growing many small plants hydroponically, usually referred to as a SOG (Sea of Green) style of growing.

That being said, if I wanted to use what I learned from this for a commercial grow, I would design an array of interlinked 4” to 6” diameter vertical PVC pipes, maybe 18” in length, to allow for long roots and a much more stable base, and switch to either a recirculating top-drip or flood and drain hydroponic system.

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Grow Lighting Terms – Lighting FAQ Glossary

Grow Light Terms (Glossary)

Know your Watts, PAR, lumens, CRI and CFLs. Here is a useful list of the main grow light terms used. We hope that you find it useful.

Air cooled hood – A sealed, reflective hood connected to an exhaust fan using ducting designed to remove much of the heat put out by an HID lamp from the grow room.

Ampere – The standard unit used for measuring the flow of electric current.

Arc – An electric arc or arc discharge, is an electrical breakdown of a gas (ionization) that once started by an igniter, produces a continuous plasma discharge as a resulting of passing a current through a normally nonconductive media. All HID and fluorescent lamps use this effect to generate light.

Array – a grid of LED emitters on a single chip (integrated circuit).

Average bulb life – An average rating in hours, indicating when 50% of a large group of lamps have failed while being operated at nominal voltage and current.

Ballast – A device which provides the necessary starting voltage and appropriate current to a fluorescent or high intensity discharge (HID) luminaire. Magnetic ballasts feature an iron core. They are heavy, oftentimes hum or buzz and are not very efficient. Digital ballasts are smaller, lighter, and more efficient, albeit at a higher cost.

Base type – These come in a wide variety and refer to the bulb attachment and corresponding sockets. Wattage, circumference, type of bulb and locking mechanism (screw in, pins, etc.) are used to determine the proper designation such as E27, Mogul, etc.

Bulb shape – The code number of a bulb consists of a letter or letters followed by a number. The letter indicates the shape of the bulb and the number relates to the diameter of the bulb in eighths of an inch. There are almost a hundred variations.

Candela – The base unit of luminous intensity roughly equivalent to the light put out by a small candle.

Ceramic metal halide (CMH) – This is a relatively new variant of metal halide that uses an extremely hot ceramic tube to ionize various gasses and salts chosen for a specific spectral output. These bulbs are becoming increasingly popular among indoor growers due to their very high CRI of up to 96 featuring much more red than a standard metal halide.

Color rendering index (CRI) – is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reproduce the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal (100 CRI) or natural light source such as the sun.

Compact fluorescent (CFL) – These are generally spiral wound fluorescents with a built-in ballast and use a standard E27 socket. Popular spectrums are 2700K (warm) and 5000K/6500K (cool) with power ranging from 13W to 200W; the most common being 23W.

Coverage – this is the grow area in square feet that a specific lamp will provide optimal growth. This is not a ‘hard’ specification like many of the terms defined thus most manufacturers will claim a higher number than is practical.

Efficacy – A measure expressed in lumens per Watt representing the efficiency of a lamp/ballast system or luminaire.

Einstein – See Micromole.

Foot-Candle – A unit of measure for the density of light as it reaches a surface. One foot-candle is equal to one lumen per square foot.

Full spectrum – A light source that puts emits radiation in all portions of the visible light spectrum which is roughly in the 400nm to 700nm range (violet to deep red).

Gas lantern routine (GLR) – This is a plant lighting schedule designed to speed up growth and reduce energy costs by shortening the amount of time the plants spend in darkness. The lighting schedule is as follows: 12 hours lights on, 5.5 lights off, 1 hour lights on, 5.5 lights off, then repeat. The 1 hour on in between off period fools the plants to stay in vegetative growth state.

Halogen – An incandescent lamp that has a small amount of a halogen such as iodine or bromine added. While more efficient than a standard incandescent, these bulbs do not compare to HIDs in terms of efficiency.

Heat sink – A component or integral part of a ballast or luminaire used to dissipate heat away from sensitive components such as electronics or LEDs. They are usually made of finned aluminum with copper being the most efficient and most expensive; the greater the surface area, the greater the heat dissipation.

High intensity discharge (HID) – This is a class of lamp based on the use of a high power arc and includes halogens, metal halides (MH) and low (LPS) and high pressure sodium (HPS).

High pressure sodium (HPS) – An HID lamp that uses sodium in an excited state to produce light. These lamps are still the preferred luminaire to flower with due to their very high efficacy (up to 150 LPW). While technically a full spectrum lamp in that light is emitted at all frequencies, the spectrums is quite unbalanced with largest output is in the green/yellow/red spectrum (520nm – 640nm) and very little violet/blue/cyan (400nm – 520nm). Common among small-scale growers are the 150W, 250W and 400W models. Large-scale and commercial growers lean towards the 600W and 1000W units. Popular bulbs are from companies such as Hortilux, Ushio, Digilux, SunMaster and others.

Hood – This is a structure for HID lamps that contains a reflector, and may also contain a ballast and/or be glass sealed for safety or to allow for air or water cooling.

Horizontal – The orientation of an HID bulb with the long side being parallel to the floor. For a round bulb, the socket would be perpendicular to the floor.

Illuminance – The luminous flux incident on unit area of a surface expressed in lumens per unit area.

Initial Lumens – The lumens produced by a lamp after a burn-in period (usually 100 hours).

Induction – A type of lamp similar to a standard fluorescent except that the sealed gasses are stimulated to produce light by induced current.

Input Watts – The total wattage required by both the ballast and the lamp in a luminaire.

Instant start – A type of ballast that starts by applying high voltage across the lamp with no preheating of the cathode.

Kelvin temperature – The unit of measurement used to express the color spectrum (or average temperature) of light emitted by a lamp. Light with a lower Kelvin rating such as 2700K will have a yellowish tint, while light with a higher Kelvin rating such as 6500K, will have a bluish tint.

KiloWatt – 1000 Watts.

KiloWatt hour – 1000 Watts used continuously for one hour.

LED driver – An electronic device which converts input power into a constant or fixed current source. It protects LEDs from voltage fluctuations as they heat up and/or age.

Lens – A glass or plastic element used in luminaries to seal a fixture or control or focus the exiting light; sometimes used with LEDs to vary the viewing angle.

Life expectancy – The average number of hours a light will last before it drops below 50% of initial lumens. HIDs generally have a life expectancy of 10,000 to 20,000 hours with LEDs lasting up to 50,000 hours.

Light bleaching – When the radiation hitting a leaf is too intense, the chloroplasts will turn white so as to not process any more light and are permanently damaged.

Light emitting diode (LED) – These are semi-conductor devices that put out light when current is run through a substrate. Different substrate materials are used to give us the various color outputs. These may either be monochromatic (single color) narrow band emitters or white (full spectrum). Due to the relatively low heat, long life and ever-increasing efficiency, they are gaining popularity as grow lights. CREE and Bridgelux are reputable component makers while complete grow lights are offered by companies such as

Light saturation – There is a limit to how much radiation a leaf can process. Saturation is the point at which increasing light intensity will no longer produce an increase in photosynthesis. Going beyond that point results in a burned condition known as light bleaching.

Lumen – the amount of radiant flux as perceived by the human eye. This measurement is not very useful for determining a good grow light as plants ‘see’ light differently. See: Radiant Flux.

Lumens per Watt – The amount of radiation in lumens converted for each Watt of input energy consumed. See: Luminous efficacy.

Luminous efficacy – The conversion rate of input energy into usable light expressed as a percentage.

Luminaire – A complete lighting fixture including bulb, ballast, reflector and mounting attachments.

Lux – A unit of illuminance equal to 1 lumen per square meter.

Maintenance Lumens – This is a measurement comparing the amount of light produced from a light source when it is brand new to the amount of light output at a specific time in the future. For instance, if an HPS produced 150,000 lumens of light initially and now produces 100,000 lumens of light after 20,000 hours, then it would have lumen maintenance of 66% at 20,000 hours.

Mean lumens – The average lumen output of a lamp over its rated life. Mean lumen values for fluorescent and HID lamps are typically measured at 40% of their rated lives.

Mercury vapor – The oldest and least efficient member of the HID family, these lamps work by arcing electricity through mercury vapor. Low efficacy combined with an improper color spectrum for horticultural applications, makes mercury vapor lamps a poor choice for a grow light.

Metal halide (MH) – A form of HID lamp that produce light by running an arc current through vaporized mercury and metal halide gasses. These have an efficacy of between 75 to 105 LPW and are quite popular for ‘vegging’ marijuana due to their very high blue content. Common wattages are 250W, 400w, 600w and 1,000W bulbs made by companies such as Lumatek, Agrosun, Sylvania and others.

Micromole (µmol) – A millionth of a mole (interchangeable with a microeinstein). It is a measurement of the amount of PAR photons striking a square meter per second.

Parabolic reflector – A lighting distribution control device that is designed to redirect the light from a HID lamp in a specific direction.

Phosphor – Substances which emit light after being bombarded by electrons. Phosphors are used to coat the inside of fluorescent or induction lamps. Rare-earth elements are chosen as phosphors to emit color in a specific color band.

Photoperiod -The relative periods of light and dark within a 24 hour period, also referred to as day-length. To keep a marijuana plant in the vegetative state, lights are generally run 18 hours on and 6 hours off or 24 hours on. Switching to a 12 on/12 off light/dark cycle is used to induce flowering.

Photoinhibition – The inhibition of photosynthesis by excess light.

Photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) – Light wavelengths between the 400nm to 700nm range that correspond to the wave band absorbed by photosynthetic pigments.

Photon – A discrete physical unit of radiant energy.

Photoperiod – The amount of time per day that a plant is exposed to light or darkness. This may be used to control various aspects of sexual or vegetative reproductive development, including flowering.

Photosynthesis – The conversion of light energy to chemical energy by photosynthetic pigments using H2O and CO2, and producing carbohydrates.

Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD) – Photosynthetically active radiation expressed as the number of photons (in micromoles) striking a square meter every second. This is one of the best measurements for determining the evenness of your lamp over the entire garden as well as the density of the radiation.

Phototropins 1 and 2 – The plant photoreceptors for the blue-light signaling pathway that induces phototropic tracking. See: Phototropism.

Phototropism – The self-orientation of the leaves of a plant (tracking) toward a light source, mostly respondent to the blue part of the spectrum.

Phytochrome – A plant growth-regulation photoreceptor protein that absorbs primarily red light and far-red light, and blue light to a lesser degree.

Photopic lumens — A type of light measured in lumens that is generally detected by common light meters and accounts for part of the human eye’s perception of brightness.

PLL – A type of externally ballasted T5 fluorescent with one or more u-bends or folds. This allows the efficacy of a linear tube in a smaller area.

Power compact fluorescent – See PLL.

Power factor – A measure of the effectiveness with which a ballast, power supply or LED driver converts volt-amperes to Watts with 0.85 to 0.95 being typical. Energy not converted is lost as heat.

Programmed Rapid Start (PS) – A method of starting fluorescent lamps associated with electronic ballasts, where low voltage is applied to the cathode prior to lamp ignition.

Radiant flux – The total amount of radiation put out by a light source taking into account infrared, ultraviolet, and visible light.

Rapid start – A method of starting typically associated with magnetic ballasts wherein a low filament voltage is applied to preheat the cathodes.

Reflector – A polished surface in a housing to collect and focus light that normally would be wasted.

Reflectivity – The measure of the reflective quality of a surface; the relative ability of a given surface to reflect light away from it without absorbing, diffusing, or otherwise compromising the light’s quality, intensity, and spectrum.

Restrike – Refers to the restarting of a previously operating lamp shortly after turnoff. Metal halide lamps typically require a minimum of 4-15 minutes to restart after turn-off.

Self-ballasted lamps – These are fixtures or bulbs with the ballast built in. It is done for convenience at the cost of efficiency. CFLs are a prime example.

Specular – A highly polished or mirrored aluminum surface with a reflectivity rating ranging from 84% to 98%.

Socket – The threaded, wired receptacle that a bulb screws into.

T5/T8/T12 fluorescent bulbs – “T” stands for tubular, while the second number stands for the number of eights of an inch in diameter. Therefore a T8 lamp would be a Tubular 8/8”, or 1” diameter lamp. T5s (the thinnest bulbs) are the most popular choice for indoor horticulture due to high efficacy and a wide choice of spectral options.

T5 biax bulb: See PLL.

Ultraviolet (UV) – Radiation in the band of light lower in wavelength than that of the human visual range just below the violet spectrum or between 100nm-400nm. UV-C (100nm-280nm) is detrimental to all known life. There is great debate as to whether or not UV-B (280nm-315nm) stimulates higher concentrations of THC in trichomes. UV-A (315nm-400nm) can be used by plants without damage, albeit at a very low absorption rate and thus, is not considered important in a horticultural lamp.

Universal – an HID lamp that can be safely placed in either a horizontal or vertical orientation without shortening the life of the bulb.

Vertical – The placement of an HID bulb with the longer side of the body perpendicular to the floor; often used in a stadium or coliseum-type grow configuration. For a round, single-ended bulb, the globe would be facing the floor.

Viewing angle – the light dispersion pattern of a bulb.HID, incandescent, CFL, and fluorescent all have a viewing angle of 360 degrees; whereas LEDs may have a viewing angle anywhere from 15 degrees to 140 degrees with 45 degrees to 120 degrees being the norm for horticultural purposes.

Water cooled hood – A sealed, reflective hood connected to a chilled recirculating reservoir and water pump outside of the grow room designed to remove much of the heat put out by a high power HID lamp. Due to its density, water cooling is much more effective than air cooling and allows the lamps to be put much closer to your plants.

Watt – A standard unit of measurement equivalent to one joule per second and equal to the power in a circuit in which a current of one ampere flows across a potential difference of one volt.

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Mortgage Lifter 3.0 – 26 Plant Hydroponics Grow Tent

Why the Mortgage Lifter 3.0?

The Mortgage Lifter 3.0 is an upgrade to the already popular Mortgage Lifter. The principle upgrade is the addition of the highly respected Gorilla Grow Tent. The result is an all in one grow room that is for those who take their hydroponics seriously.

Mortgage lifter 3 Inside

*** Check out the Dealzer we organised on the Mortgage Lifter.

*** Need a massive 9 x 5 foot grow tent kit? Super Grow Room from SuperCloset is worth looking at

*** The Fullbloom - 5′ x 9′ Gorilla Grow Tent Kit – Get 5% off with coupon ‘HTGfriends


The Mortgage Lifter 3.0 Grow Tent is a large tent that comes with everything you need and enough space to grow up to 26 large plants to fruition. If you want to supersize those plants you can also buy it in a 12 plant Super BubbleFlow Bucket System.

There are no corners cut with this superb system which is packed with quality components, features and extras.

  • Upgraded Gorilla Grow Tent is constructed from 1680D fabric, 3 -9 times thicker than most grow tents;
  • 3600 access;
  • Dual, gasket sealed, fan cooled 600W Sunblazer dual spectrum grow lamps;
  • Large, high quality Phresh filters keep exhaust 100% odor free;
  • Dual six inch Hurricane fans;
  • Choose from 26 plant SuperPonics System or 12 plant Super BubbleFlow Bucket System;
  • Easy to follow instructional DVD and printed instructions;
  • No Hassle three year warranty;
  • Lifetime of technical support and back up.

Build Quality, Size, Yield and Security

  • Gorilla Grow Tent is a massive 5’D X 9’W X 7’T. This space is more like a grow room than a grow tent and allows plenty of room to work as well as lots of space for plants;
  • Gorilla Grow Tent has extendable height to allow for standard room height or basement or attic spaces. Extra poles extend the height from 6’11” to 7’11”;
  • Extremely durable and hard wearing tent fabric is a whopping 1680D, that’s 3 -9 times thicker than most grow tents;
  • EZ view window allows you to inspect your plants without entering the tent, ideal if you are using CO2 and don’t want to let it out;
  • Handy tool pouch keeps all your meters and other equipment safe and makes sure it is where you want it when you want it;
  • 360o access means that the large size of the tent doesn’t mean you can’t get access to all your precious plants;
  • Fully light proof. All panels and windows are Velcro sealed making the tent 100% light proof.

Mortgage lifter 3 Gorilla Grow Tent

Lights, Ballasts, Control and Power

  • Two, dual spectrum, gasket sealed, 600W Sunblazer grow lamps provide masses of light in the correct spectrum for your plants;
  • Digital, dimmable Lumatek ballasts provide the best current regulation available and allow you to lower the output when your plants are young and fragile. You can then crank them up to full power for super productive flowering;
  • In-line cooling means that your lights are cool enough to touch. No more plants wilting under the glare of powerful lamps and controlling the temperature of the tent is much easier;
  • Ten outlet power strip allows you enough sockets for all your electrical needs.

Mortgage lifter 3 Lights

Air Movement, Air Filtration, Heat and Odor Control

  • Dual six inch Hurricane fans provide a combined total of a massive 870cfm of air change. More than enough clean air for your babies;
  • Hurricane fans are housed in durable powdered steel and fitted with certified UL components for quiet operation;
  • Lamp cooling fan is kept in a closed system so if you use CO2 you won’t be venting it away when the lights are on;
  • Four internal circulation fans keep the air moving about and allow you to set one in each corner for Cross Air Flow, no corner gets left untouched and all of your plants get bigger and stronger;
  • Micro Mesh filtration keeps incoming air free from bugs and spores;
  • A huge 6” X 24” Phresh carbon filter makes sure that the exhausted stale air from the grow tent is 100% odor free. Phresh are industry leaders in carbon filtration and these units are machine packed with highly effective, 46mm RC-48 activated, certified virgin carbon;
  • Aluminum trim and the 51% open air custom mesh design make Phresh around half the weight of comparable filters;
  • 50 feet of Thermoflo SR Ducting vents your tent whilst helping to keep noise to a minimum.

Mortgage lifter 3 Phresh Filter

Hydroponic system – How does it work?

Mortgage lifter 3

Once again, those nice people at Dealzer present us with a combined hydroponics system from SuperPonics. This time they have combined Nutrient Film Technique (NFT), Aeroponics and Ebb and Flow systems to bring you a superior system that will make your plants perform better than you have ever seen before. Your plants’ roots receive a constant, nutrient rich, aeroponic mist as well as regular, timed flows of highly oxygenated nutrient solution.

  • Super Flow aeroponics system is the world’s first non-clogging aeroponics system. The design of these units means that they will not clog, even when using organic hydro nutrients;
  • 25 gallon reservoir keeps nutrient mix stable and avoids unwanted peaks in PPM and pH;
  • Non-clogging system prevents root rot and is easy to clean;
  • Powerful and durable Eco Air 7 280W air pump provides 200 litres of air per minute and operates at 5.1 PSI;
  • Air pump is low noise and works without oil;
  • EcoPump ECO 185 submersible water pump can move up to 185 gallons per hour;
  • Water pump runs at 10 Watts with an oil free, high magnetic rotor to run quietly and reliably;
  • 26 site troughs allow plenty of space to grow 26 plants to fruition;
  • Troughs are built on a sturdy framework that presents them at an easy height to work at;
  • Double trellis allows for an even canopy for maximum light efficiency and provides extra support for your plants, allowing them to concert their energies into making bigger buds for you.

Mortgage lifter 3 Hydroponics

Alternately, instead of the 26 site system (which is recommended by the manufacturer) you can choose the Super BubbleFlow Bucket 12 site system. This system is the one to choose if you plan on growing really huge plants and features a combination of Deep Water Culture (DWC) and Upwelling Re-circulation to keep your big plants well fed and thriving. By linking the buckets and using them effectively as a reservoir it is possible to avoid the nutrient and pH inconsistencies sometimes associated with smaller DWC systems.

Mortgage lifter 3 Hydroponics Bubbleflow

Nutrients and Extras

The Mortgage Lifter 3.0 is a complete package that has been carefully designed to give you all you need to set up a successful hydroponic grow system. It comes packed with extras which include:

  • Technaflora ‘Recipe for Success’ Starter Kit – This popular nutrients package pack from Canadian nutrient experts Technaflora contains all the nutrients, additives and supplements that you will need to get you going. Contents of the kit are:
    • 500 ml – B.C Grow
    • 500 ml – B.C Boost
    • 500 ml – B.C Bloom
    • 250 ml – SugarDaddy
    • 250 ml – ROOT 66
    • 125 ml – Thrive Alive B-1 Red
    • 125 ml – Thrive Alive B-1 Green
    • 125 ml – MagiCal
    • 125 ml – Awesome Blossoms
    • 7 g – Rootech Cloning Gel
  • The Kit also contains the ‘Recipe for Success’ mixing chart, which provides step by step instructions on how to combine the supplied nutrients for maximum yields;
  • GH pH Testing Kit – A General Hydroponics pH testing kit to keep your nutrient solution at the optimum pH level for your plants;
  • Digital TDS Meter – An HM Digital TDS meter to keep on top of the concentration of your nutrient solution;
  • Timers – Quality analog timers keep your system running with precision, allowing you to concentrate on other stuff while your plants just keep on growing;
  • Instructional DVD – If you are new to hydroponics and it all seems a bit much to take in, kick back and watch this easy to follow DVD that explains the whole process, from start to finish, in easy to understand language;


The Mortgage Lifter 3.0 Grow Tent comes with a no hassle three year warranty to give you confidence and peace of mind. As well as this, there is the famous Dealzer lifetime of technical support available. Simply phone or e-mail the company with any issues and get full back up from hydroponic plant growing experts.

Optional Upgrades

The Mortgage Lifter 3.0 is a well designed package that provides you with everything you need to start growing immediately. There is no need to purchase anything else, just add seeds and water.

However, some customers like to add extras just for fine tuning and to get the absolute maximum out of their set up.

CO2 – Adding CO2 to your grow has been proven to increase production by up to 25%. There are two CO2 systems available to you as optional upgrades to the Mortgage Lifter 3.0 package.

  • The bucket system provides lots of extra CO2. It is easy to use and can be moved around and placed wherever you want it. This system lasts for around 6 – 12 months. After this time, you will need to purchase a replacement bucket, although discounts apply to previous customers.
  • The Tank System is a built in system that contains all the wiring, gauges and tubing that you would require to run a tank of CO2 on a timed release. However it does not include the tank which you would need to purchase yourself from a supplier local to you.

Ozonator – This air purification system literally zaps impurities (including odor molecules) out of the air by way of a highly advanced system. Results in pure, odorless air;

Reverse Osmosis Water Filter – Pre-cleaning your water with a reverse osmosis water filter is a great way to ensure that you start off your nutrient solution with pure, clean water. This RO filter produces up to 200 gallons per day of low PPM, super pure water.

  • Removes over 98% of chlorine and other contaminants;
  • Very efficient, wastes around 25% less water than comparable RO Systems (based on 77° F 60 psi, 550 ppm inlet water);
  • Unit size: 16.5’’ x 14”, weight: 9.8 lbs;
  • Includes: 4-Stage RO Unit, 2 RO Membranes, Carbon Filter, Cleanable Sediment Filter, Automatic Shut-Off Cartridge, Wall Mountable Metal Bracket, Garden Hose Connector, ln-line Shut-Off, 8 ft. RO & Drain Line, 5 ft. Inlet Line, Filter Wrench;
  • Comes with full instructions;

Eye Protection – Protect your eyes from the harsh glare of HID lighting systems with these cool, high quality Amethyst sunglasses.

Nutrients – An additional year’s worth of high quality nutrients to compliment the 4 month supply that comes with the package.

Total Germination Package – Good seeds aren’t cheap. Take the chance out of germination and maximize your success rate with this Total Germination Package. The kit contains everything you need to provide perfect germination conditions. Kit includes:

  • Seedling Tray;
  • Humidity Dome;
  • Seedling Heat Mat;
  • Heat Mat Thermostat;
  • Rock Wool Cube Growing Medium.


*** Check out the Dealzer we organised on the Mortgage Lifter.

*** Need a massive 9 x 5 foot grow tent kit? Super Grow Room from SuperCloset is worth looking at

*** The Fullbloom - 5′ x 9′ Gorilla Grow Tent Kit - Get 5% off with coupon ‘HTGfriends


What people saying about the Mortgage Lifter 3.0 26 Plant Hydroponic Grow Tent

“I have always been more than happy with my Mortgage Lifter which I have had for a few years. It produces like mad and I have never had a problem. However, I saw the Mortgage Lifter 3.0 and thought, what the hell, its time for an upgrade anyway. Man alive! This thing is like having your own commercial grow room! I am a registered caregiver where I live and I NEVER let my patients down. I have a continual supply of high grade medicine and lots and lots of it! Very impressed, this has taken all the headache out of growing. Surely now anyone can be a professional grower.”

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DIY LED Grow Light

This article will be in two parts: my history of the search for an optimal grow light for a small 2’ x 2’ space, and the construction of such a light to achieve over a gram per Watt.

How it came to be

The first part of my journey was trying to understand why growers (in general) were using two separate lamps, metal halide (MH) for vegetation and high pressure sodium (HPS) for flowering, while there was only a single outdoor light source: the sun, for the entire life cycle.

Blue for veg and red for flower is an oversimplification that underscores common misperceptions of plant physiology but it is still a good concept to understand.

In the HID world HPS is the champ in converting electricity to light (110-150 lumens per Watt (LPW)), why use the less efficient (90 to 105 lumens per Watt) MH? There is insufficient blue in HPS bulbs (though this is improving) to prevent extreme stretch in the early stages of growth, thus the much higher blue content of MH was chosen. Plants grow towards blue light. This is called phototropism. When there is not enough light in the blue spectrum, plants will keep searching or stretching trying to find it.

So why not continue all the way through the entire growth cycle with MH? Red chlorophyll A & B receptors have a higher response than the blue chlorophyll A & B receptors; therefore let’s give the plants the spectrum they respond best to. As upward growth slows or stops in early to mid-flowering, blue light is not as critical to marijuana growth at that point in time.

But here is the kicker, HPS puts out the majority of its energy in the yellow spectrum; read: the ‘wrong’ theoretical spectrum, so how come indoor growers get such great results? The simple answer is that plants use almost the entire visible light spectrum, though at different efficiencies, and can adapt to imperfect or out of balance light conditions. Through a series of highly complex chemical processes at the molecular level, cannabis can up or down-regulate the light received into a more useful form.

Enter bi-color LEDs that just focus on the red and blue chlorophyll A receptors. This was based off of work done at NASA using very early and inefficient emitters. Most commercial lamps mimicked this research and copied the 6 (or 8) to 1 red to blue ratio. I believe this to be less than optimal as can easily be observed by looking at the photosynthetic response curve. The red response is not multiples greater than the blue response.

Response Photosynthesis

What NASA did prove is that plants can be grown from seed to fruition on merely two narrow spectral bands. This is good information, but does it point to optimal growth?

My first foray into commercial LEDs was the purchase of three (one red, one blue and one mixed) 45 Watt Chinese LED panels using 0.5 Watt emitters. These actually worked OK, but for a few caveats.

  • The power supplies were not current regulated and all three burned up. This was just poor engineering and could have been redesigned. Good commercially made LED lights have self protecting power supplies.
  • One other problem was the laser-like focus of these narrow-angle LEDs. This could cause bleaching (super saturating the chlorophyll receptors turning them white) if too close and resulted in uneven lighting or spotting. Again if you look at how the pros make their products they use 90° angle beam lenses;
  • Then there was the issue of color mixing, even on panels using both color LEDs. Each leaf would not receive the same balance. Color mixing means you need the LEDs close to each other, with lenses and good thermal management to keep the light source strong and direct.

My next experiment was to use higher power red and blue (3, 5 and 10 Watt) emitters on a single chip. These were much less likely to cause spotting, but color mixing was still an issue.

Also a major consideration is that while lumens per Watt is not the metric we need to best evaluate a horticultural lamp it was what was available on spec sheets.

LEDs have four distinct advantages over HID

  • Directionality, LEDs have viewing angles of 15 to 150 degrees depending on the lens usually while most used in horticulture are in the 60 to 120 degree range. HIDs radiate in a 360 degree range meaning that reflectors are required along with accompanying losses as heat. Some HID growers have overcome this limitation by doing vertical grows where no reflector is required;
  • Long life, 50,000 hours vs. 10,000 – 20,000 hours for HID with ever decreasing light;
  • Spectrum can be custom designed;
  • Lumen decay is slower than with HID. Translated, this means that LEDs will hold closer to their initial brightness throughout their life than HIDs. The reasons are simple. HIDs have metal filaments that get extreme heat stress while the gasses contained in the bulb may also age and leak. Compare that to LEDs, which are solid state semi-conductors with few parts and subject to a much narrower range of heat-stress.

Where LEDs were most lacking was in efficiency and color mixing. Color mixing is giving each chloroplast an equal amount of the spectrums emitted. My red and blue LEDs were averaging about 30 lumens per Watt vs. 3 to 5 times that much for HID lamps. Even though optimally targeting the prime receptors, the lower luminous efficacy could not compare to HID.

During my research, commercial manufacturers were experimenting with, and offering, 2, 3, 5, 8 and 10 spectral band LEDs in an attempt to hit all of the various photoreceptors and not just chlorophyll A & B a couple offered true full spectrum with no gaps in the spectrum offered. There seemed to be no general consensus on what was best. People were groping in the dark (no pun intended). Were the ancillary pigments stimulated by orange, green, yellow, cyan and deep red; etc. necessary? I looked to the sun and the plant photosynthetic response curve as templates for the best possible grow lamp.

Getting the curve right AND getting a much higher efficacy are both necessary if we are trying to match and/or outperform HID lamps. I believe this became possible with the introduction of the CREE XLamp CXA25xx and CXA3050 series, check out the Cree website, it is pretty interesting.

Bridgelux, Seoul Semiconductor and others have somewhat similar products. These are COB (chip-on-board) high power white, full spectrum emitters designed for industrial and residential lighting. They have a very high CRI (color rendering index) which means they show all colors equally well to the human eye.

Cree White LED graph

Note that the peaks happen to coincidentally correspond to the main plant response peaks.

Chlorophyll Ab Spectra

These CREE emitters are putting out 105 to 118 LPW, depending on spectrum chosen, at a 120 degree viewing angle. This puts them on equal footing with MH as far as efficacy and surpasses MH in regards to color spectrum and longevity, but still trails as far as cost.

My grow area is very restricted as to space and ventilation so I calculated the maximum amount of heat dissipation I could have in my space at about 165 Watts, thus I chose to use 5 emitters running at about 28 Watts each. I went with four 2700K (warm or more red shifted) and one 5000K (more blue/green or cool) emitter(s) with the 5000K in the center, and the 2700s on the four corners.


I decided to go with passive cooling to keep it simpler and to not add the extra few Watts required for the fans. Using fans (active cooling) could greatly reduce the size of the heat sinks and probably the cost as well.

  • I went with five monster heat sinks rated at 50 Watts of heat dissipation each. Attaching these to an open air aluminum frame gave even greater cooling capacity;
  • The recirculating air exchange fan utilized to bring fresh air to the plants also helps to cool the emitters.

50W Heat Sink Foe LED Grow Light

I attached the emitters to the heat sinks with permanent thermal adhesive (Arctic Silver Alumina AATA-5G Two Part Thermal Adhesive Compound Epoxy).They are now non-removable without destroying them. Since my build, Molex has released a LED holder specifically for the CREE CXA 25xx series. These would screw into the heat sink, requiring tapped holes. Power leads can then be pinch-gripped instead of soldering as I did. If you want to change the emitters to a higher Wattage or different Kelvin rating or replace in the case of failure, it is a simple matter of loosening two screws and removing the leads with a pin.

I also chose the more expensive route of using 5 separate constant current LED drivers. Constant current means that as components age or heat and cool and input voltage varies slightly, the LEDs receive the same amount of current. This keeps the brightness constant as well and prevents premature aging or possible failure from current spikes as LED emitters are extremely sensitive to current fluctuations. I have noticed that only some of the better commercial LED grow lights use this kind of technology.

In this case, I went with the 30 Watt/700mA model # RACD30-700 units from RECOM. These feature overload, short circuit and over-voltage protection. Efficiency is good, but not great, at 85%. I also considered Meanwell as an established manufacturer which offers some more efficient drivers at about 92% efficiency, but at a higher cost.

I had some extra room on the frame so I added two E27 (common screw-in household sockets) ports in case I wanted to add UV, far-red (incandescent) or CFLs. Due to the limited space, I use the newer and shorter micro-mini CFLs.

Micro Mini CFL

Note the older, larger style mini on the left and the same Wattage micro-mini on the right.

For the frame design, I wandered the isles of Lowes hardware store. Any large chain hardware store should have most everything you need.

As this was just for my personal usage and to keep cost and complexity down, I wired the power directly to the terminal block and did not use a power switch. With a bit extra work, one could put each driver on a separate power switch for ultimate control. Either way, you be sure to ground the frame to prevent electric shock.

The heat-sinks were then pinch gripped between the U-rails using the long screws and oversized washers.

DIY LED Grow Light Front

DIY LED Grow Light Rear

  • Overall size is approximately 18” X 20” and only a few inches deep. This is not meant to be an engineering drawing as your needs will differ from mine, but the same principles can be adapted to any grow space.
  • Note that CREE also makes much higher power emitters such as the newly released XLamp CXA3590 rated at up to 18,000 lumens for those needing even more light or greater coverage. Of course, different heat sinks and drivers would be required.
  • For those wanting to get their feet wet, but not commit to a full build, using just one 5000K emitter, heat sink and driver and a simple mounting is a good way to go and is perfect for a small tray of seedlings up to 2-3 weeks of vegging.

So theory is great, but how does it work?

Having five light sources spaced 5 – 6” apart gives much better lighting than a single source with minimal shadows, even down low on the plants. The color is very natural – no harsh blue or murky yellow.

The plants absolutely love it. I have had less stretch than with any other lamp and lush, full growth all the way through to flower. This lamp provides the perfect amount of light for my 2’ X 2’ space and getting over a gram per Watt is easily doable for the experienced marijuana grower.


Note that this is the unadjusted natural color put out by the lamp without color correction.

I have spent untold amounts of money and hours of research to come to this design and I am very happy with it. I am convinced this is the way to go for personal use for those with minimal space and heat restrictions and a penchant for mechanical and electrical tinkering. As to commercial applications, the price/performance ratio is not quite there yet.

CREE and other cutting-edge semiconductor manufacturers have already accomplished much higher LPW figures in the laboratory and eventually these will make it to full production. I would estimate there are 3 more generations before they reach their maximum potential and easily surpass the mighty HPS. In the meantime they will focus even more on ramping up production and bringing costs down.

Many people ask me the price. Where do I start? From engineering school where I learned to read and evaluate specifications? My years of cultivation experience? Do I count the thousands of hours of research and the costly failed experiments and the many redesigns on drafting paper until I got it almost right? Then there is the cost of the tools and labor and so forth, but in the end – this lamp is a part of me and this reconstruction is a gift to you guys for your support at Parts costs can be tallied from the links and your local supplier on the accompanying list. Figure on around $500.

If there is enough interest, I will help others build a similar lamp adapted to their particular situation either as a consultant or as part of a future column started here.

If you feel this build is beyond your current capability, or just can’t be bothered, fair enough, you might want to check out some fine, full spectrum manufactured LED grow lights that come with a 5 year warranty from the guys at

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Earth Cab Grow Box Series

There are four choices within the Earth Box family

1. Earth Cab 6 Plant Soil Grow Cabinet – Go!

2. Earth Cab XL 8 Plant Grow Box – Go!

3. Earth Cab Pro 12 Plant Grow Box – Go!

4. Earth Cab Pro XL 16 Plant Grow Box – Go!

Earth Cab Grow Box Earth Cab XL Grow Box
Earth Cab Pro Grow Box Earth Cab Pro XL Grow Box

Why the Earth Cab Grow Box Series?

The Earth Cab Grow Box series have been designed for those who like to grow in soil. Whether you prefer soil for environmental reasons, for simplicity, or because you prefer the taste of organically grown herbs, the Earth Cab Grow Box series has been made especially for you.

The Earth Cab boxes have been manufactured with the same high quality components as Dealzer’s very popular Yielder range, the only real difference is that all the hydro set up has been replaced with a soil based system.

We have always heard good reports from Dealzers

exceptional support.

Of course, should you decide to convert to hydroponics at a later date, your Earth Cab Grow Box is easy to upgrade with full hydroponics kit. A simple phone call to the manufacturers will supply you with all the information and kit you need to do so. Whatever method you end up using, your Earth Cab Grow Box will provide the space, lights and ventilation to last you for many years to come.

  • Completely stealthy, no light, heat or noise;
  • Designed for soil but upgradeable to hydro;
  • Contains everything you need;
  • Robust construction, built to last;
  • Built in safety measures;
  • Economical to run;
  • High quality components throughout;
  • Full written instructions and ‘plain English’ instructional DVD;
  • Excellent reputation, many happy customers;
  • Designed and built by experts;
  • No hassle three year guarantee;
  • Dealzer’s famous lifetime of technical support.

Build Quality, Size, Yield and Security

Before we go on to take a look at the outstanding features of the Earth Cab Grow Box series, let’s take a look at the differences between the four grow boxes in the series. It is in the size and quantity of internal chambers that the cabinets differ.

  • Pro models have dual light tight chambers which allow you to grow clones or young seedlings at the same time as flowering plants;
  • Basic models feature a single chamber for either vegging or flowering;
  • XL models are ten inches wider than the other models, measuring 46” X 26” X 74.5”;
  • Smaller models measure a more compact 36” X 26” X 74.5”.

All of the cabinets in the Earth Cab range feature:

  • Sturdy construction of 18 gauge powdered steel;
  • Unobtrusive stealth design that does not attract unwanted attention;
  • Net Trellis with built in adjustable anchor points;
  • Light proof, whisper quiet, no heat signature;
  • Fire resistant for extra safety and peace of mind;
  • Built in castors for ease of movement;
  • GFCI electrics to prevent any electric shocks.

Earth Cab Grow Box Inside

Lights, Ballasts, Control and Power

  • Apollo 600W dimmable, digital ballast. This high end digital ballast weighs in at 5.5lb and gives protection against short circuit, open circuit and ignition failure;
  • Ballast runs on 110/120V or 220/240V, no need for convertors;
  • Ballast runs MH or HPS bulbs without the need for convertor bulbs;
  • 600W MH grow lamp bulb that delivers 61,000 lumens in the 4200K spectrum, enough for all your vegetative growth;
  • 600W HPS grow lamp bulb that delivers 90,000 lumens in the 2100K spectrum for all the flowering power you need;
  • Highly efficient light wing focuses light onto your plants, where it is most needed;
  • Reflective Mylar insulation maximizes light efficiency whilst keeping your heat signature down;
  • Grow lights on yoyos to enable you to position them at the optimum height from the plant canopy;
  • All controls, timers and ballast are situated at the rear of the cabinet, out of the way where they cannot be seen;
  • Light baffles keep light in. No giveaway light leaks showing on the outside of the cabinet.

Earth Cab Pro also includes

  • 24” High Output T5 fluorescent fixture;
  • 2 X 24” High Output T5 grow bulbs delivering 24W of light each in the 6500k spectrum. Perfect for starting out your young plants/clones.

Earth Cab Pro XL also includes

  • 36” High Output T5 fluorescent fixture;
  • 2 X 36” High Output T5 grow bulbs delivering 36W of light each in the 6500k spectrum. Perfect for starting out your young plants/clones.

Earth Cab Grow Box Ballast

Earth Cab Grow Box Light

Earth Cab Grow Box Yoyo

Air Movement, Air Filtration, Heat and Odor Control

  • 20 lbs. activated carbon filter with 1.5” thick activated carbon is deliberately over spec to ensure that your exhaust is totally odor free, preventing unwanted smells and awkward questions;
  • Duct muffler to keep your grow silent and stealthy;
  • 6” commercial duct blower operates at 400 cubic feet per minute (cfm) and a static pressure of 2.55”W;
  • Replaces all of the air inside the cabinet 2.5 times per minute, expelling stale warm air and replenishing CO2;
  • 6” Air King internal circulation fan is 33% larger than in most other grow boxes, strengthening plant stems and ensuring superior air circulation;
  • Air intake ports fitted with washable pre-filters to keep bugs, fungi and pests out.

Earth Cab Grow Box Pots Internal Circulation Fan

Earth Cab Grow Box Carbon Filter

Grow system – How does it work?

Earth Cab Grow Box 8 Pots

The Earth Cab series is all about soil. So as a starter they are supplied with Fox farm Ocean Forest soil. This high quality potting soil is widely used throughout the industry, and with good reason. Ocean Forest is blended from earthworm castings, bat guano, fish and crab meal. It gets its aerated texture from composted forest humus, sandy loam, and sphagnum peat moss. Ocean Forest is pH balanced at 6.3 – 6.8 to ensure optimum nutrient uptake.

Earth Cab Pro Ocean Forest

All of the appropriate soil, pots, grow bags and nutrients are provided. Just plant them, feed them and water them! Full instructions are provided on an easy to follow DVD.

‘Earth Cab’ Can Grow

  • Between 1 and 6 full sized plants up to 54” tall in 2 ½ gallon pots;
  • Between 1and 16 medium sized plants up to 54” tall in ½ gallon Grow Bags;
  • Up to 72 clones in the included cloning kit.

‘Earth Cab XL’ Can Grow

  • Between 1 and 8 full sized plants up to 54” tall in 2 ½ gallon pots;
  • Between 1 and 16 medium sized plants up to 54” tall in ½ gallon Grow Bags;
  • Up to 72 clones in the included cloning kit.

‘Earth Cab Pro’ Can Grow

  • Between 1 and 12 full sized plants up to 36” tall in 2 ½ gallon pots;
  • Between 1 and 32 medium sized plants up to 24” tall in ½ gallon Grow Bags;
  • Up to 72 clones or seedlings.

‘Earth Cab Pro XL’ Can Grow

  • Between 1 and 16 full sized plants up to 36” tall in 2 ½ gallon pots;
  • Between 1 and 32 medium sized plants up to 24” tall in ½ gallon Grow Bags;
  • Up to 72 clones or seedlings.

Nutrients and Extras

As usual the people at Dealzer have done everything they can to provide you with a complete grow kit containing everything you need. This kit includes, but is not limited to:

  • pH Adjustment Kit

    – The Correct pH is essential to your plants’ ability to take in nutrients efficiently. Keep on top of your pH levels with this handy and easy to use pH adjustment kit;

  • Analog Timer

    – Digital timers are prone to problems, that’s why Dealzer have reverted to using these robust analog timers to keep your grow op running smoothly;

  • Thermometer/Hygrometer

    – Humidity and temperature inside your grow cabinet are very important to your plants’ health and productivity. You can check them in an instant with this digital meter;

  • 72 site clone dome with grow tray and insert

    Maximize your germination success and the success of your clones with this complete germination package;

  • Root Riots – clone/seed starter cubes

    – Root Riot is the starter medium of choice of many experts. Give your young plants the best start in life;


All of the Earth Cab Grow Tent series come with a no hassle three year warranty to give you confidence and peace of mind. As well as this, there is the famous Dealzer lifetime of technical support available. Simply phone or e-mail the company with any issues and get full back up from the plant growing experts.

Optional Upgrades

Earth Cab Grow Box Pots Led

  • 2 LED Grow Light Panels

    – These LED grow light panels are supplemental to the main lighting in your Earth Cab Grow Box. BY adding extra light at the side of the plants, where it can be used by the lower branches, you can improve flowering on lower bud sites and increase yields by up to 25% over top lighting alone. LED grow light specifications are:

    • 12″ x 12″ x 1.5″
    • 45 Watts (0.3125 watts per bulb)
    • 0.28 amps
    • 5:1 red blue ratio designed specifically for flowering
    • 630 NM red, 460 NM blue.
  • 6 Month Standard Nutrient Package

    – When ordered with the cabinet this excellent 6 month supply of Botanicare CNS17 plant nutrients will come with a 20% discount and at no extra shipping cost. Package includes;

    • 1L CNS17 Coco/Soil Grow
    • 1L CNS17 Coco/Soil Bloom
    • 1L CNS17 Ripe
  • 6 Month Expert Nutrient Package

    – The standard nutrient package provides everything you will need to grow your own supply of quality bud. However, if you would like to up your game and grow like the pros you can order this first class nutrient upgrade package of additives and enhancers. Package includes:

    • 1L CNS17 Coco/Soil Grow
    • 1L CNS17 Coco/Soil Bloom
    • 1L CNS17 Ripe
    • 8oz Cal-Mag Plus
    • 1L Liquid Karma
    • 1L Hydroplex
    • 1L Sweet Raw
    • 1L Clearex

For some good pricing & exceptional support check out Dealzers

What people saying about the Earth Cab

“I have the Earth Cab Pro and have to say I am very pleased with it. Lots of capacity and real easy to use. I know hydro will give me bigger yields but its not all about yield. The soil system meets my needs, and then some! And though I haven’t needed it yet, the lifetime of tech support gives me confidence. I am a happy little grower!”

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MediCab Micro – 14 Plant Hydroponic Grow Box System

Why the MediCab Micro?

The Medicab Micro Hydroponic Grow Box is one of the top selling grow boxes out there. Don’t be fooled by its diminutive size, the MediCab Micro is a big producer that can easily supply your personal needs at a great price.

The MediCab Micro comes ready to plug in and use, straight out of the box. It is fully automated for your convenience and comes with easy to follow instructions and feeding schedule.


Growing like the pros is now easy and even the novice gardener can reap bumper harvests with the MediCab Micro.

  • Fully automated, low maintenance system;
  • Can produce up to seven pounds per year;
  • 100% light tight, no heat signature, quiet as a whisper;
  • Can operate with either soil or hydro;
  • Very economical to run, with LED grow lights so less spikes in utility bills;
  • Concrete three year warranty gives you peace of mind;
  • Lifetime of free technical support from the professionals over there at Dealzer.

Build Quality, Size, Yield and Security

  • The MediCab Micro System is a stealth system that is both light tight and odor free;
  • The cabinet itself is constructed from a durable composite and finished with a sleek white veneer that helps it to blend in to your home or office environment;
  • Features a single compartment with integrated hydroponics system;
  • The system measures 24” wide x 17” deep x 26” high, making it easy to fit into your home or office without looking out of place. This really is a stealth hydroponics system;
  • Provides enough space to grow up to 14 plants using Sea of Green concept;
  • We love the hidden key lock with magnetised handle provides security without attracting unwanted attention;
  • All wires and controls are out of sight at the rear of the cabinet.



Lights, Ballasts, Control and Power

  • The MediCab Micro operates a hybrid lighting system that is both effective and cheap to run;
  • 45W LED lighting panel from Universal Hydro gives the equivalent light of a 125W CFL;
  • LEDs operate at 660nm, 630nm, 430nm, providing the best spectrum to make your plants flourish. For full spectrum lighting see the options at Super Grow LED;
  • Two X 26W CFL grow lights provide supplemental lighting, completing the spectrum;
  • The supplemental CFL lighting is fully adjustable, allowing you to lower them to just above the plant canopy, maximizing lumens and focusing them where you need them.



Air Movement, Air Filtration, Heat and Odor Control

  • The MediCab Micro features dual Full Tech intake/exhaust fans that provide a combined 180cfm of air circulation;
  • Intake fan supplies plenty of fresh clean air that is loaded with lovely CO2;
  • Pre-filter keeps out bugs and spores, avoiding any nasty surprises;
  • Exhaust fan expels stale, warm air via a custom designed, industrial grade carbon filter to keep exhaust clean and odor free;
  • A four inch internal circulation fan maintains constant air movement across your plant canopy, strengthening stems and keeping damp and mold at bay;
  • Due to its ultra efficient lighting the MediCab Micro has no heat signature;
  • High efficiency reflective panels not only maximize the lumens inside your cabinet, they repel bacteria and mold and prevent the outside of the cabinet from getting hot too.



Hydroponic system – How does it work?

The Medicab Micro Grow Cabinet combines Aeroponics and Deep Water Culture (DWC) to give you the best in compact hydro systems. Working together, this system guarantees explosive plant growth and bumper yields of fat buds despite the small space.

  • ECO Air2 6W, dual outlet air pump equipped with adjustable flow;
  • Fully automated EZ Flush Pump system allows for low maintenance;
  • Three gallon reservoir provides plenty of room for your plants’ roots to thrive and allows you to keep your nutrient solution stable;
  • CocoMon provides your plants with the latest growing medium. CocoMon is a spun coco medium that is bound with natural polymers to give your plants’ roots plenty of stability and lots of oxygen. CocoMon requires no pre-treating and retains more water than clay pebbles without water logging.

Bottom feed systems work well because they eliminate the potential for algae which can cause problems in some top feed systems where the top of the substrate is permanently wet. They also prevent excessive evaporation which can cause pH swings and nutrient imbalances in your reservoir.

Nutrients and Extras

The MediCab Micro comes supplied with everything that you need to get going. Extras include:


  • Bontanicare CNS17

    – Botanicare are industry leaders in the manufacture of hydroponic nutrients and the CNS17 package is a firm favourite amongst professionals and newbies alike. The pack includes a 3 month supply of CNS17 Grow, Bloom, and Ripe nutrients. These easy to use nutrients come with a feeding schedule that is custom designed to work with the MediCab Micro system from germination to harvest. Take the guess work out of hydroponic feeding with this guaranteed recipe for success.

  • TDS Meter

    – It is crucial that you keep your nutrient solution at the correct quality and concentration. This is easy with this simple to use Total Dissolved Solids meter. A large display will give you an accurate readout of the amount of Total Dissolved Solids in your solution, making minor adjustments easy. The handy supplied color chart explains everything in no nonsense language;

  • pH Control Kit

    – Keeping your nutrient mix at the correct pH is very important for maximizing your yields. This kit makes measuring and adjusting your nutrient solution’s pH a breeze. Simply measure the solution then add pH Up or pH Down as appropriate;

  • Trellis system

    – Using trellis systems to even out your plant canopy is proven to increase yields by up to 30%. A flatter canopy equals more light penetration and more efficient photosynthesis. Grow like the pros for bigger and better buds;

  • Built in Grow Light Timer

    – This integral part of the fully automated hydro system means that your MediCab Micro will run itself. No need to worry if you have to go out of town for a few days, the system will run itself;

  • Easy Grow Guide

    – Don’t be daunted by all the scientific terminology that comes with hydroponic growing. This step-by-step, easy to follow grow guide gives you all the information that you need. You can be up and running on the day your system arrives.


The MediCab Micro comes with a comprehensive three year warranty that gives you confidence and peace of mind. On top of this, there is Dealzer’s famous lifetime of technical support on offer and the best price available. Simply phone or e-mail the company with any issues and get full back up from hydroponic plant growing experts.

Optional Upgrades


What people saying about the MediCab Micro Hydroponic Grow Box

“California has had a lot of problems with dispensaries so I wanted to try growing my own medicine. I have to say it was much easier than I expected. The information was very easy to follow and I love watching my plants bloom! The cabinet just sits in the corner of my bedroom looking like a regular bedside cabinet. No smell and no noise. I wish I had thought of doing this years ago.”

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weed seeds shop logoNew strains Weed Seed Shop

On Tuesday September 24th 2013, Weed Seed Shop will introduce three new feminized strains on .

The Weed Seed Shop range is enriched and extended with the arrival of Super Cheese , K -Train and Super Silver Cheese . These easy to grow cannabis seeds combine the positive qualities of Skunk and Cheese; Trainwreck and Kush; and finally, Cheese and Haze. The new cannabis strains are an exciting new option for both the grower and the end user.

Cheese with a powerful bite

Feminized Super Cheese is an easy to grow, stable Skunk cross with the pervasive stoned effect of Cheese. The abundant yield this strain produces will be sure to satisfy discerning growers, and for consumers this pungent and powerful indica hybrid promises ultimate relaxation combined with a high propensity towards a severe case of the giggles. A must for all Cheese connoisseurs!

K -Train – India meets the USA

K -Train Feminized is a promising combination of Kush and Trainwreck . This new strain offers a powerful cross of indica strains from India with a high level sativa strain from America. K-Train Feminized generates a long-lasting high while being easy to grow, producing  strong , bushy plants. Benefitting from a short flowering period, the strain produces a high yield of bud smelling of sweet oranges and citrus fruit with an earthy undertone. What more could anyone ask for?

High Haze , relaxing Cheese

Feminized Super Silver Cheese results from the combination of Super Silver Haze and Cheese, resulting in a spiritual, ecstatic high combined with a relaxing body stone. The desirable balance between strong growth , moderate height gain and rewarding harvest should satisfy all growers while the characteristic aroma of Cheese, softened with chamomile and musky elements from the Haze parent, will certainly delight those lucky enough to try it.

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New Website for Weed Seed Shop

Weed Seed Shop relaunched their website on the 2nd July 2013. The new site has a fresh new look and feel. After various tests and valuable feedback from visitors, the cannabis seed webshop is providing optimal performance.

Compare and review cannabis seeds 

With the launch of the new website, makes it easy for the visitor to choose the right weed seeds. The various selection filters now offer the possibility of a swift oversight of products that fulfil many different wishes! With the help of this filter system, products can be sorted by price, flowering time and size of harvest, among other qualities.

weed sedd shop

Another new tool makes it possible to compare different seed strains. Enthusiasts can compare, for example, the strain WSS Amnesia Feminised with other feminised cannabis seeds. With this new functionality, Weed Seed Shop aims to make dialogue with customers even simpler. Weed Seed Shop is also stimulating site visitors to share their experiences with the help of product reviews and ratings for each sort of cannabis seeds.

Weed Seed Shop in style

During the development of the new cannabis seed webshop, the nine year old design was also taken into hand. The new house style is both clearer and more attractive, increasing its user-friendliness. The logo and font have been freshened up and the new colours serve a practical function, indicating the three different groups of seeds: feminised weed seeds, autoflowering strains and regular cannabis seeds.

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Cheesewreck Weed Seeds

Type: Sativa/Indica Height Indoors: Medium/Tall
Origin: Cheese X Skunk #1 Height Outdoors: Medium/Tall
Breeder: Seedism Flowering period: 9-11 weeks
Auto flowering seeds available: No Harvest outdoor: October
Feminized seeds available: No THC Level: High
Grow Indoors: Yes Stoned or High: Hybrid
Grow Outdoors: Yes Grow Difficulty: Easy
Yield: Up to 600gm M2 Awards won: None


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Watering cannabis plants

Clean waterAutoflowering plants just like regular cannabis (Sativa and Indica) plants need water to grow and produce healthy leaves and buds. Water is the lifeblood of the plant and cannabis plants are about 80 % water and this liquid is used in almost all of the plants life processes starting from photosynthesis and transpiration to nutrient uptake and keeping the leafs stiff. So if water is so important what are the optimum amounts of water and when , how you need to water your plants?

First of all there are so many variables like temperature, humidity, growing medium, strain, climate conditions, pot size and so on that there is not a one method – fit all solution but there are general guidelines that can help you to water your plants properly.

But first before all the watering techniques and explanations you need to know what water to use. Basically any tap water will be fine but you should let it sit for at least 24 hours within an open top container as all the chlorine in the water will evaporate and the water will also heat up to the temperature of the growing room and you won’t damage your roots with cold water full of the toxic chlorine. Chlorine will evaporate in the form of bubbles on the container walls , so when those bubbles have gone away then you should also check the PH of that water and if everything is OK then you are good to go.

One growing myth is that reverse osmosis water will be better for your cannabis, but this is not the case as in the reverse osmosis process the water is stript from ALL of the nutrients so every micronutrient will need to be supplied artificially. Many grow nutrients will not have all of the micronutrients in adequate doses as they will expect some of them to be in the water , so be careful with that purified water!


Underwatering happens when the plants gets too little water and its leafs start wilting. This process is common in nature but not so common in indoor grow operations as growers usually do exactly the opposite from under watering. Marijuana plants need a little dry period for the potency and for the optimum growth but it should not get so extreme that the leafs start wilting. The wilting process happens because the water pressure inside the leafs is not high enough and the cells start shrinking so the overall structure of the leaf  bends under its own weight. You can fix underwatering by simply introducing water to the growing medium and you will be able to see how the leafs start slowly strengthening and that means that they can start to fully photosynthesise again.

Underweatered Marijuana Plant


Over Watering marijuana plants is one of the most common inexperienced growers mistakes as usually they want to supply plenty of water but they don’t realize that too much water slows down the growth and excessive amount of water can introduce some mold or fungus that can severely damaging the plant. First signs of overwatering are that the leafs start to curl and bend strangely and the leaf tips start to turn yellow. This process is often misdiagnosed for nutrient deficiency but can be easily spotted if you know what to look for. Overwatering can’t be cured immediately but letting the plant use up all the water in the growing medium will be a start and slowly your weed plants will recover and keep on growing.

Optimum watering

If your automatic or regular plants get optimum water starting from the seedling all through the flowering phase then they will grow fast and will give you huge harvest. In different plants life cycles there are different techniques of watering and different amounts of water you need to supply.


In the seedling phase you need to supply your plants with plenty of water but not in share volume but in frequency. You need to keep your growing medium wet for the new seedling to grow and develop properly so you need to water your soil at least twice a day but with a minimum amount of water as too much water can kill the little sprout! My suggestion is to use a hand sprayer and spray the water around the newly developed plant but not directly on the stem as it is still fragile and can bend over. As for the amount I suggest to simply wet the surface as the rest of the pot will be wet from the pre soaking process before planting the seed in the ground. This moisture in the ground will be enough for the seedling to produce a good root ball so be careful with watering at this stage! Autoflowering seedlings are a little tougher than regular cannabis ones but there are no differences between autoflower and other cannabis plants in the watering process for this phase.


At the vegetative growth stage autoflowers will also need the same care as regular cannabis plants and that means that the watering process needs to be repeated every day if your pot is small or every other day if the pot is medium to large. Basically depending on the growing conditions every grower will need different time periods between waterings but a good rule is to check the first centimeters of the soil and if it is dry then it is time to water! There are also soil humidity meters but in general cannabis growers will water their plants depending on the surface moisture or holding the pot up / setting it on the site, to feel the weight of the soil, and with time every grower will be able to tell that the weight is too low so it is time to water your herb!


At the flowering phase you need to continue as in the vegetative growth phase because autoflwoers can grow under 24 hours of light and still flower! This skill gives them advantages but in the watering department it gives a bit more work as the flowers will chew up more water but the air temperature will also increase the water evaporation so you will need to water more frequently than you would regular weed plants. But again do the watering only when the soil is moist at the top or the pot is too light when picked up!

After knowing the right method for each phase you need to know exactly how to water your plants. In the seedling phase as I mentioned before you need to get a hand sprayer because large quantities of water can kill the little plant. But when the seedling phase is over you most definitely need large amounts of water to sustain optimum growth. This means that at each of the flowering and vegetative phases you need to pour as much water in the growing medium to get a 10% to 30% runoff water at the bottom as only then the growing medium will be completely wet and you won’t need to worry about dry soil pockets or dry spots full of nutrient that can give overdose to your marijuana plant.

If however the soil gets too dry between watering phases then you can get runoff exactly as you start watering because the soil can be pulled away from the pot sides and water will flow down by the sides directly through the pot. If this is the case then you have three options:

  • You can slowly wet the soil adding a little water in multiple watering cycles. You will need to do this process till the soil expands again. This process can be long as you will need multiple waterings in a short period of time so if you choose to do this be patient and don’t rush the process because you need the whole soil to get moist.

  • You can also crumple the top soil a bit in the gaps between the pot walls but be careful not to damage any roots. You can also add additional growing medium at those sides, but give exactly the same medium as the one you used for the initial potting.

  • The third and final chance is to mix a little bio-degradable soap inside the water as the soap will make the water “wetter” and it will more easily wet the growing medium and soak in the dried up parts so there won’t be as much runoff as without the soap.  If you choose this method know that only bio-degradable sop will be OK as other soaps contain hazardous chemicals. if you add soap to your water be sure to measure the PH of the water as some soaps can increase the PH level!

So now you know almost all there is about the watering process on cannabis plants but if I missed something or you have some additional question come to my blog and look around or ask for answers on any topic related to autoflowering or regular marijuana plants!

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